July 2008

Here are some more Russian restaurants in Beijing (from thatsbj.com):

“Moscow Restaurant

Moscow Restaurant’s ambiance is the War and Peace to Traktirr’s Dead Souls. This one-time ballroom is grand, epic even, with soaring ceilings and oh-so-Soviet pillars. Located in the barrens of Xizhimen, Moscow opened back in 1954, and was Beijing’s first foreign restaurant.

Though the atmosphere recalls Tolstoy, the food is a little more Gulag Archipelago. Salmon (RMB 59) was twin thin planks of fish, the crab salad (RMB 50) could be more accurately described as a mayonnaise swamp and there were no mashed potatoes to be had. But the Chicken Kiev (RMB 30) is worth ordering just for its presentation: the missile-shaped breaded cutlet was mounted at launch angle on a payload-like hunk of youtiao, and leaked a uraniumy dribble of butter when cut into. It’s hard to resist Cold War metaphors. Speaking of cold, the vodka wasn’t. But at 8 kuai per ounce of Stolichnaya, a simple cube of ice will suffice.

Food: 2/5
Service: 4/5
Decor: 4/5
Price: moderate

Traktirr
This perennially packed restaurant survives on word-of-mouth and reputation alone, and it’s not difficult to see why. There’s the rustic, homey decor, but it’s really the affordable prices that make Traktirr a winner. Many main courses are available for under RMB 30, and beers clock in at RMB 5 a pint. Comforting winter warmers include the hearty, but slightly dry, Chicken Kiev (RMB 30) and the chopped cutlet with fried egg (RMB 26), which was piping hot and wonderfully moist. The affordable food, the warmth of the staff and the homey ambiance explain the restaurant’s popularity.

Food: 3/5
Service: 3.5/5
Decor: 3/5
Price: cheap

Traktirr Pushkin

Nothing says “Russian” quite like dancers in spandex and heavily-accented renditions of Chris De Burgh classics. Well, perhaps not, but Beijing stalwart Traktirr’s second branch draws in the punters with its vigorous Ruskie entertainment. The baked eggplant and summer squash (RMB 18) was heavy but delicious, although the beef stroganoff (RMB 36) was a tad watery, while the trout fried in walnut crumbs (RMB 38) was very oily. However, people don’t really come here for the haute cuisine, so we necked our 10 kuai jiapi, sat back and soaked up more Lady in Rrrrrred.

Food: 2/5
Service: 4/5
Decor: 3.5/5
Price: cheap

White Nights

Portraits of Hollywood icons aren’t the first thing you’d expect inside a Russian restaurant, but then the glorious days of the Soviet Union have long passed and the frivolities and vices of the imperialists have become second nature to a once proud nation. Comrades can at least take heart from the food at White Nights, which remains true to the spirit of Mother Russia. Get your ruble’s worth with succulent peppercorn beef tenderloin accompanied by a working man’s serving of creamy mashed potato (RMB 35). Or try the poached salmon in white wine sauce, which costs a mere RMB 38 – not quite the Czar’s ransom you’d expect to pay. Sadly the service could induce discontent among the masses as large groups can be kept waiting, while oligarchic diners are more likely to get their dinner on time.

Food: 4/5
Service: 2/5
Decor: 2.5/5
Price: cheap”

(2 votes, average: 3.00 out of 5)

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Little Birch restaurant is a high-end spot with exquisite cuisine without the Yabao Lu glitz. With its clean feel, it’s the spot for a quiet dinner with your comrades, or dining alone with Anna Karenina. thatsbj.com rates this restaurant as 4/5, with cheap to moderate pricing.

Update: Thanks to Vanja, I found out that the only Russian food in this restaurant is pickles and beer. Most of the dishes are Asian cuisine.

Address: 24 Fuchengmenwai Dajie, 1/F, Jingbin Hotel, Xicheng District, Beijing
Phone: 6858 2233 ext 1666
Hours: Daily 11am-11pm

(1 votes, average: 5.00 out of 5)

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According to thatsbj.com, stars of Ukraine’s opera scene have somehow ended up performing at Kiev restaurant. They saunter among the tables dressed in military uniforms, belting out everything from Italian arias to Russian folk songs. You can request your favorites for RMB 50 a pop. The vodka kebabs and the indulgent Kiev pudding, which really is a rich cheesecake, come highly recommended.

Address: 13 Puhui Nanli, Yuyuantan Nanlu (west of the Millenium Monument), Haidian District
Phone: 6828 3482, 6827 7309
Hours: Daily 11am-11pm

(2 votes, average: 3.00 out of 5)

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